Chapter 01 · Thursday, April 18, 2024
Golden Gate Views from Marin Headlands
We spent the day at the Golden Gate National Recreation Area, photographing across what appear to be three different spots or moments within the park.
Golden Gate National Recreation Area, California
“Hard to picture this hillside being an active missile battery, but it was operational until 1974.”
We stopped at Site SF-88 in the Marin Headlands to see the restored Nike Ajax missile on its launch rail. Standing next to it, the thing is surprisingly big — a Cold War relic just sitting out there in the open with 'U.S. Army' stenciled on the side. Hard to picture this hillside being an active missile battery, but it was operational until 1974. Fort Cronkhite's old barracks were visible across Rodeo Lagoon behind us. Definitely a strange spot — part military museum, part hiking trail, all inside a national park.
History
Site SF-88 is the only fully restored Nike missile site in the United States — volunteers from the Western Aerospace Museum helped restore it to working condition, and the launch equipment can still raise and lower missiles from the underground magazine.
“The nation that makes a great distinction between its scholars and its warriors will have its thinking done by cowards and its fighting done by fools.”
— Thucydides
Golden Gate National Recreation Area, California
“Looking south you get the full spread — bridge, bay, city skyline all at once.”
We stopped at the Marin Headlands late morning and walked out to the coastal bluffs for the views. Looking south you get the full spread — bridge, bay, city skyline all at once. A bird was working the updrafts off the cliffs while waves hit the rocks below. We also got a good look north toward Rodeo Beach and Bird Island, the rocky outcrop with the sea arch cut through it. Fort Cronkhite's old buildings were visible in the background. Took about an hour before we moved on.
Military History
The Marin Headlands hosted military installations from the Civil War through the Cold War, including Nike missile sites active into the 1970s — some of which are still intact and open to visitors.
“The mountains are calling and I must go.”
— John Muir, letter to his sister Sarah, 1873
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