Chapter 08 · Monday, October 19, 2026
Gloucestershire Countryside and Bristol Waterfront
We started the day in Cheltenham with a browse at Waterstones on the Promenade — where Sarah picked up Kipper's Christmas Eve and posed with the bronze sculptures out front — before heading to Coaley for lunch with Aled and Sarah at the Old Fox, with a wander around St. Bartholomew's churchyard that included a sobering stop at a headstone for Frank Webb, killed in 1917 aged 23. We finished the day in Bristol at the docks, walking the waterfront at Anchor Square as the crescent moon came out, then dinner at the Spiny Lobster with Andy and Cheralyn followed by drinks at the New Moon
33-41 Promenade, Cheltenham GL50 1LE, UK
“Sarah grabbed a copy of Kipper's Christmas Eve and posed with them for a photo.”
We stopped at the Waterstones on the Promenade, which turned out to have a couple of those big bronze animal sculptures sitting out front — a rabbit on a bench and some kind of horned beast next to it. Sarah grabbed a copy of Kipper's Christmas Eve and posed with them for a photo. Good find for a Monday morning. The Promenade itself is pretty grand, all Regency terraces, and the bookshop fits right in.
Architecture
The Promenade in Cheltenham is considered one of the finest Regency streetscapes in England, developed largely between 1820 and 1840 as the town cashed in on its spa town status.
“A children's story that can only be enjoyed by children is not a good children's story in the slightest.”
— C.S. Lewis
12B Betworthy, Coaley, Dursley GL11 5EF, UK
“One headstone we stopped at was for the Webb family, with Frank listed as having died in November 1917 aged 23.”
On the way from Cheltenham down to Bristol, we stopped in Coaley for lunch with Aled and Sarah at the Old Fox. Beforehand we had a wander around St. Bartholomew's Church next door — classic Gloucestershire stone, square battlemented tower, churchyard full of old graves going back centuries. The autumn leaves were out in full colour, which made for a good selfie spot. One headstone we stopped at was for the Webb family, with Frank listed as having died in November 1917 aged 23. That one stayed with you.
History
St. Bartholomew's Church in Coaley dates largely from the 13th and 14th centuries, with the distinctive square tower added in the Perpendicular Gothic style typical of prosperous wool-trade parishes in the Cotswold fringe.
“In war, there are no unwounded soldiers.”
— José Narosky
South Bldg Anchor Square, Canon's Rd, Bristol BS1 5UH, UK
“Someone spotted the New Moon on the Quay — a world tapas bar right on Hannover Quay — and we ended up having drinks there in a room decorated with leopard-print ceilings and disco balls.”
After a long day that started in Cheltenham and included lunch in Coaley, we finally made it to Bristol and headed straight to the docks. Greg, Hazel, Sarah, and I walked along the waterfront at Anchor Square as it was getting dark — crescent moon out, boats moored up, lights starting to reflect off the water. We found a place called the Spiny Lobster for dinner with Andy and Cheralyn, which was great. Before or after, someone spotted the New Moon on the Quay — a world tapas bar right on Hannover Quay — and we ended up having drinks there in a room decorated with leopard-print ceilings and disco balls.
History
Bristol's Floating Harbour was created in 1809 by engineer William Jessop, who dammed the River Avon to keep the water level constant — before that, ships were left stranded on mud twice a day at low tide.
“To travel is to discover that everyone is wrong about other countries.”
— Aldous Huxley
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